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If you’re in the Tampa Bay area, Tuesday is a compelling day to play hooky: Jan. 6th is Epiphany, a celebration of the baptism of Jesus, and few places commemorate the holiday quite like Tarpon Springs, FL.
The day kicks off at 8 a.m. with a special service at the Greek Orthodox Church, but if you’re not Greek Orthodox, head straight to the bayou around noon to score a prime seat for the main event: At 12:30, a processional of choir members and folk dancers head straight to the water’s edge, where Archbishop Demetrios will toss a cross into the gulf. As it sinks, teen boys from the church dive after it, baring freezing waters to retrieve the cross — and a year’s worth of blessings. Afterward, the city celebrates with a Glendi (AKA festival), featuring traditional Greek food, music and dancing.
For people living in Tarpon Springs, the event is an unofficial holiday, where the nearby schools are nearly empty, and thousands crowd the bayou to partake in baklava (a honey-and-nut-filled pastry) and cheer on the cross divers. It’s a thrilling glimpse into another culture, and if you’re making a day of it, make sure you squeeze in a little sightseeing:
FOOD:
- Grab lunch at Hellas — Enjoy classic Greek food in one of the city’s most renowned eateries. The saganaki (flaming cheese) and skordalia (think hummus, but with potatoes instead of chickpeas) are crowd-pleasers, and you’ve got to try Tarpon’s take on Greek Salad (spoiler: there’s potato salad in the center…and it’s way more awesome than you think).
- Plan for dinner at Mama Maria’s — Try an extra-thick slab of Pastitso, featuring layers of macaroni noodles, beef-and-tomato sauce, cheese and a dollop of creamy bechamel that practically melts in your mouth.
- Sample everything at The Fudge Factory — I’m not sure what’s more mesmerizing: The smell of all 14 flavors of fudge, or watching the rhythmic way the bakers pour and shape the treats along the store’s long marble table.
FUN:
- Visit the Tarpon Springs Aquarium — If you time it right, you can pet a stingray, then witness a shark and/or alligator feeding. Who doesn’t want those bragging rights?!
- Shop along the Sponge Docks — Sure, it’s a little kitschy, but there are some great finds (and photo opps) in the area. Look out for the alligator jerky, olive oil soaps and natural loofahs in, well, just about any store, and don’t miss two shops in particular: Five Fish (a clothing/accessories boutique with a serious array of Alex & Ani bangles) and One Life, a handmade jewelry shop that also sells beachy home decor — including tea towels and pillows featuring unconventional encouragements, like “Today I will be happier than a bird with a French fry.”
FULFILLMENT:
- Visit St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral — From the intricately painted ceilings and stained glass windows to the marble icon screen first showcased at the 1939 World’s Fair (according to Trip Advisor, at least), this church shouldn’t be missed.
- Take a sponge boat tour — For $8, you can take an hourlong boat ride out into the gulf and see how divers harvested fresh sponges for more than 100 years (they even wear the traditional, 200-pound diving uniform — brass helmet and all). You’ll get a whole new appreciation for that thing you scrub your dishes with.
Can’t make it this year? Epiphany is held every Jan. 6th, so there’s always 2016! (And now you know what to prepare for.)
Photos: Melodene Braun
