Ah, the softball-sized cookie that started it all. (At least my obsession with barely baked, massive treats.) Levain Bakery has been around since 1995, and it’s widely regarded as the birthplace of “NYC-style cookies,” AKA gooey-centered cookies as big as your fist. But with so many competitors on the market these days, are they still the reigning champions of gigantic sweets?

I recently revisited the bakery to sample its flavors, and see if my memory matched reality. (I’ve been going there since 2010.) It was work I was all too eager to justify—”I need to buy some cookies for research!”—and I’m happy to report they’re every bit as incredible as I remembered.

So, What Makes Levain Cookies so Special?

Beyond being one of the originators, they also have a cool backstory: Founders Pam Weekes and Connie McDonald dreamed up their original Chocolate Chip Walnut cookie to fuel them during a triathalon. They started selling them in their tiny, 74th Street bread bakery, and they became an instant hit. (Another cool thing: Even as Levain has expanded, the bakery is committed to donating its leftovers every night.)

What Do Levain Cookies Taste Like?

They’re lightly crispy on the edges, which gives way to a dense, gooey core that sometimes seems underbaked—but never runny. They’re less sugary sweet than the competitors, with more of a cake-meets-cookie-dough base (rumored to be the result of using all-purpose and cake flour, though I’ve yet to see that confirmed). There’s also a solid ratio of mix-ins to dough, so you’re never getting a chocolate chip- or raisin-less bite.

What Flavors Do They Sell?

Levain has gradually expanded its offerings, but to this day, it sticks to a few key cookie flavors: Chocolate Chip Walnut, Dark Chocolate Chocolate Chip, Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip, Caramel Coconut Chocolate Chip (a limited-edition treat) and Oatmeal Raisin, as well as a gluten-free and vegan take on the Chocolate Chip Walnut.

Which Flavors Are the Best?

This is hotly debated in my household, but in my opinion, these are the top three flavors:

3. Chocolate Chip Walnut

2. Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Chip

1. Caramel Coconut Chocolate Chip (it’s like a Samoa meets a chocolate chip cookie, and I cannot get enough!)

Ask my daughter, and she’ll vote Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter. Ask Nate, and he’ll say Chocolate Chip Walnut or Oatmeal Raisin. If you want something hearty that’s not too sweet (but still pillowy soft), like what a scone wishes it could be, opt for the Oatmeal Raisin. If you love decadent sweets, go dark chocolate or Caramel Coconut Chocolate Chip. Trust.

How Much Does a Levain Cookie Cost?

Each cookie costs $5 in stores, though you can also buy a four-pack online and have it shipped to you for $29, plus shipping (which varies, depending on how far away you are).

How Do You Pronounce ‘Levain’?

This tripped me up for years. I heard people say it all kinds of ways, but for the correct pronunciation, let’s go directly to how the founders say it: Levain is pronounced “Luh-ven,” based on the French word for “leaven.”

The Verdict:

Gideon’s is still my favorite oversized cookie of all time (particularly the chocolate chip banana bread), but Levain is a close second. It’s not nearly as rich, but the cookies are consistently delicious—rarely overbaked and dried out, as many competitors tend to be. Don’t miss the Coconut Caramel Chocolate Chip; it’s only around until summertime!

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